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What are the best ingredients for addressing dark circles, puffiness and wrinkles?
Julie L’Archevêque, esthetician, Institut de Beauté Spécialisé in Paris: Witch hazel carries powerful anti-inflammatory properties that reduce puffiness; glycerin and polysaccharides are very effective hydrating agents that can help the skin regain its suppleness and softness, as well as improve the appearance of wrinkles.
Debra Myers, director, Relache Spa at Gaylord National Resort & Convention Center in National Harbor, Maryland: Retinol helps retexturize the skin and minimize fine lines, and hyaluronic acid (HA) is super hydrating. Products containing peptides, as well as gentle green tea, cucumber, chamomile and lavender are also ideal for this area as they are naturally anti-inflammatory, calming and hydrating.
Jerralyn Karakorn, esthetician supervisor, Serenity by the Sea Spa at the Hilton Sandestin Beach in Destin, Florida: We look for products that include algae, which drains toxins, improves microcirculation and diminishes dark circles. Our go-to is the Phytomer Smoothing and Reviving Eye Mask, as it contains several types of algae as well as marine spring water, which firms and protects the skin from free radicals.
What accessories do you recommend—both in and out of the treatment room?
Myers: The current trend is eye masks—the perfect mini relaxation experience both in-spa and at home. We love the Elemis Pro-Collagen Hydra-Gel Eye Masks, which help smooth, tighten and hydrate. Clients report looking brighter, and less fatigued and puffy. We also offer eye treatment enhancements that include microcurrent to stimulate and firm the muscles around the orbital bone; and oxygen infusions (avoiding the more delicate areas) with bursts of compressed air to help the skin appear more refreshed and radiant.
Karakorn: As part of clients’ eye treatments, we incorporate Phytomer’s double brush massage technique, which really helps with puffiness and darkness. The esthetician uses soft brushes with a massage balm that boosts circulation and helps push toxins away from the eyes. In between services, we recommend eye masks containing HA and collagen to hydrate and smooth the eye area, reducing puffiness and wrinkles. Another beneficial at-home accessory is a jade roller; the cool jade stone not only diminishes puffiness, but improves circulation, eliminates toxins and tightens pores.
L’Archevêque: The skin underneath the eye is very thin and delicate, so it’s important to use a hydrating formula to protect it. For dark circles I recommend Silhouet-Tone’s Anti-Puffiness & Anti-Dark Circles Eyes Patch—it creates a ‘second skin’ while the mask diffuses moisturizing and restorative ingredients. Gentle microdermabrasion can be performed prior to their application, which helps hydrate and minimize wrinkles. I personally use the Silhouet-Tone Vortex Peel’s blue tip and my clients love the results.
What skin care should clients avoid using on or around their eyes?
Karakorn: Because this area is much more prone to reactions than the rest of the face, guests must stay away from products that contain a lot of fragrance, or ingredients such as exfoliating beads. Skin care designed for the face can possibly be too heavy for the skin around the eyes, and might clog pores and cause milia.
L’Archevêque: Clients should avoid using any skincare product containing harsh acids, as the skin around the eye area is very delicate and must be kept well hydrated.
Myers: Remind guests that this skin is sensitive, thin and can easily become irritated—especially with the use of scrubs (which can cause tiny tears) as well as glycolic peels and alcohol due to the drying nature of these ingredients. In addition, I suggest clients use light touches and resist too much pulling when applying their undereye products.